To fix a broken resin statue, match the repair to the break. Use thin super glue for small, clean breaks, two-part epoxy for joints that bear weight, and epoxy putty to rebuild a missing chip. Clean both surfaces first, hold the parts steady while they cure, and touch up the paint last. Done carefully, the repair all but disappears.
First, look at the break
Before any glue, understand what you are dealing with. A clean snap with two matching faces is the easiest fix. A load-bearing joint, like an ankle or a wrist that holds up the figure, needs more strength. A missing or crumbled piece needs rebuilding, not just gluing. Resin and polystone are both rigid, so a clean break usually mates back together precisely, as long as you keep the faces free of dust.
Small, clean breaks: super glue
For a snapped finger, blade, or other light part, cyanoacrylate super glue is the right tool.
- Wipe both faces clean and dry. Even skin oil weakens the bond.
- Apply a thin line to one side only. Too much glue squeezes out and ruins nearby paint.
- Press the parts together in the correct alignment and hold for 30 to 60 seconds.
- Leave it undisturbed for a few hours before handling.
A gel super glue gives you a moment longer to line things up, which helps on fiddly parts.
Load-bearing or larger breaks: two-part epoxy
Where the joint carries weight, super glue alone will snap again. Use a two-part epoxy adhesive. Mix equal parts, spread a thin layer on both faces, join them, and brace the piece with tape or rubber bands until it cures. Epoxy is slower, often several hours, but it forms a far stronger bond. For a tall or heavy part, add a pin: drill a small hole in each face, seat a short length of brass rod or a toothpick in epoxy, and join. The pin carries the load so the joint cannot shear.
Missing chips and gaps: epoxy putty
When a piece is lost or crumbled, rebuild it. Knead a small amount of two-part epoxy putty, press it into the gap, and shape it with a wet tool before it hardens. Once cured, sand it smooth with fine grit, working up through the grades, until it matches the surrounding surface. This is also how you fill a seam that has opened up.
Hide the repair with paint
A structural fix is only half the job. Prime the repaired area, match the base colour, and build it back with thin layers that blend into the original paint. Finish with a matte or satin varnish over the spot so it catches light like the rest of the piece. Take your time here, because rushing the colour match is what makes a repair show.
Handle polystone with extra care
Polystone is brittle and shatters into more pieces than plain resin. Work on a padded surface, keep every fragment, and support the piece by its mass while the glue cures. If you are not sure what your statue is made of, see our guide to polystone versus resin. To avoid the next break, store and move the piece using the steps in our display and handling guide.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best glue for a resin statue?
Cyanoacrylate super glue for small, clean breaks, and two-part epoxy for load-bearing joints or larger parts. Epoxy putty fills missing pieces.
Can a shattered statue be saved?
Often yes, if you keep all the fragments. Rebuild it piece by piece with epoxy, pin the load-bearing joints, fill the gaps with putty, and repaint.
How do I hide a repair?
Prime the area, match the base colour in thin layers, blend into the original paint, and seal with a varnish that matches the surrounding sheen.
H.P. Lovecraft — Edizione Limitata
100 copie numerate. Artigianato italiano. IP originale.